A Georgia Girl in Germany

During my last “free” day off in Israel, I went on a tour through Galilee. The day was absolutely amazing! We headed north from Tel Aviv, and drove through the beautiful, lush countryside. Before our first stop, we saw Mount Tabor -- our tour guide called it the Mountain of Transfiguration. At 1,850 feet, it is the highest mountain in the area and is situated between the Jezreel Plain and Nazareth to the west, Samaria to the south and Galilee to the north. This is where Jesus was transfigured in the eyes of Peter, James and John.

“And he was transfigured before them: and his face did shine as the sun, and his raiment was white as the light. And, behold, there appeared unto them Moses and Elias talking with them. ... While he yet spake, behold, a bright cloud overshadowed them: and behold a voice out of the cloud, which said, This is my beloved Son, in whom I am well pleased; hear ye him.”
-- Matthew 17: 2-3, 5

Our first stop was in Nazareth, to see the Basilica of the Annunciation. This is the largest church in the Middle East and is the fifth church built on this site (completed in 1969) -- over the cave where the Angel Gabriel appeared to Mary and announced the impending birth of Jesus.

“And the angel said unto her, Fear not, Mary: for thou hast found favor with God. And, behold, though shalt conceive in the womb, and bring forth a son, and shalt call his name Jesus. He shall be great, and shall be called the Son of the Highest: and the Lord God shall give unto him the throne of his father David: And he shall reign over the house of Jacob forever; and of his kingdom there shall be no end.”
-- Luke 1: 30-33

Remains of the original 1st and 2nd century church were discovered during excavations in 1955. The second church was built in 427 during the Byzantine period, the third church was built in the 12th century by the Crusaders, and the fourth was completed in 1877. Before the Six Days War, this was the most-visited place by Christians. After the Six Days War, the borders changed and Christians could travel to Jerusalem once again. If the church had been built after the war, it likely would not have been built as large.

The mosaics in the central hall and the outdoor walkway were donated by Catholic communities from around the world. I love mosaics, and it was amazing to see the variety of representations of Mary throughout the grounds. This gold interpretation is from Slovenia. The one below is from the Vatican.



This is the outdoor walkway -- covered to protect the mosaics and to provide shade to visitors while enjoying the beautiful art.

From Italy -- showing an amphitheater and Roman ruins.

Flanking the window are mosaics from South Africa, Guatemala, Vietnam and Thailand.

Of course, shorts are not appropriate -- or allowed -- inside the basilica…so this individual purchased a scarf and wore it as a sarong so he could go inside. I’ve long learned to wear long pants and sleeves when there’s a possibility of visiting a church.

The door leading inside the basilica is a stunning work of art in itself -- depicting Jesus’ life in relief.

The basilica actually consists of two superimposed churches. The lower crypt preserves the former churches, and is centered around the Holy Grotto.

The Holy Grotto is where the Holy Family is said to have lived after it returned from Egypt. It was carved out of the white rock of the hill, in the shape of a small square room.



Excavations have revealed a small cistern with inscribed plastered stones. A pair of granite columns in the grotto is reputed to have supernatural powers.

Lovely stained glass windows in the curved staircase leading to the basilica’s upper level.



This is the upper level of the basilica, and serves as the city’s Catholic parish. It’s actually above and to the side of the lower level.

Georgeous detail in the presbytery.

There are many more mosaics along the walls in the basilica’s upper level.

The gorgeous, simple rotunda above the altar in the presbytery.

More mosaics.

This mosaic is from China. The top of Mary’s sleeve is covered with pearls -- high enough up that visitors can’t reach them.

This sculpture is from the U.S. -- depicting the Immaculate Conception. It’s titled “The Woman clothed with the Sun,” and the description states “Mary is the expression I multi-faceted splendor … Mary, our mother, conceived immaculately, hovers at the dawn of our sacred and cosmic destiny.”

Once back outside, we could see more excavations of the older churches.

This is the side courtyard. You can see the Jerusalem Cross in the floor mosaic in the near right corner.

After visiting the basilica, we walked through Nazareth. The city is both Muslim and Christian, and is the largest Arabic city in Israel.

I thought the manhole covers were interesting.

South of Nazareth is the Mount of Precipitation, where Jesus gave a sermon in the synagogue and antagonized the congregation so much that they wanted to hurl him down the hill and kill him. Instead, Jesus leapt from the mountain, thus giving the mountain its name. This monument stands on the purported location of this event -- Jesus must have jumped away from where we were, because the mountain looks more like a rolling hill from this vantage point.

This hill overlooks the battlefield where Christian Crusaders were defeated by Muslims in the Battle of Hattin, in 1187. The Crusaders were at a disadvantage in the early July heat since they had no access to water. The Muslim armies under Saladin captured or killed the vast majority of the Crusader forces, removing their capability to wage war. This battle was a turning point, when Islamic forces once again became the eminent military power in the Holy Land, reconquering Jerusalem and several other Crusader-held cities.

Labels: Israel, Travel